To enhance the safety of crew, vessels, buildings and environment, reliable sea state measurements are required. The Detailed Wave Summary from NDBC (Table 2) depicts the swell period (in this case a pure swell) and also the wind wave period. The longer the period, the more wave energy is contained within the swell and the faster and deeper beneath the sea surface it travels. However, there is no agreement about the most representative wave period of a sea state. Wave data is essential for the protection of the coastal zone to estimate the eroding forces of wind, waves, and currents. Sea in this state will look lumpy and bumpy but you’ll struggle to see individual waves. second period pure swell (wave generation region well upstream) -- generally greater than 10 second period A typical sea state will have all different wave types. The Wave Generation Calculator computes the mean wave parameters defining a sea state generated by a wind blowing with a specified strength and duration over a sea area. Our Forecast : Wave Period. Please visit Our FAQ page for more information on data accuracy, available formats, pricing and delivery options. Dominant Wave Period The dominant wave period (in seconds) is a wave period associated with highest energetic waves at a specific point or area in the total wave spectrum and is always either the swell period or the wind-wave period. Almost the totality of wave forecast websites use Hs. The significant wave height Hs is the most common and accepted parameter used to define the representative wave height of an irregular sea state. Significant wave height, WVHT, is approximately equal to the average of the highest one-third of the waves, as measured from the trough to the crest of the waves. How are significant wave height, dominant period, average period, and wave steepness calculated? 1 - 4 Seconds. The statistical distribution of zero up-crossing wave periods in Gaussian mixed sea-states is examined by using numerically simulated data. In coastal areas, sea state measurements are needed to support weather, wave climate and ship routing services. Forget about it - this is swell so small and weak in the very early stages of being generated from strong wind that it can almost never be surfed. In Figure 1, all three wave types are depicted. Dominant wave period is also known as the “peak” period. HTSGW - Significant wave height (m) DIRPW - Peak wave direction (degrees, meteorological convention) PERPW - Peak wave period (s) More Information. The wave speed, C, can be calculated by dividing the wavelength by the wave period (C=L/T) since a wave travels one wave length each wave period. It takes the Wind Speed, Duration and Fetch as inputs. 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